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How do you like to level those bumps that result when you drop-fill little holes around the rosette or along the binding? I'm using radial purfling in this build and I have a few spots that needed drop-filling. I have managed to get them level in the past, but since I'm working on one now I thought I'd see how others do it...
Thanks,
Steve

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Easier to do than to explain. I use a single-sided razor blade with an edge turned on it. I clamp the blade in a vise and turn the edge with a screwdriver at maybe an 80-85 degree angle to the blade; not quite perpendicular and it doesn't take much pressure.

If the drop fill is on an edge then I wrap masking tape over ~2/3 of one end of the blade so that the exposed portion only contacts the drop fill. If the drop fill is away from an edge then I put masking tape on 1/4" to 3/8" of each end of the blade and then use the center to scrape the drop fill level. Some magnification so you can see what you're doing is essential (at least for me) and careful flexing of the blade will let you get the drop fill level enough so you can finish sand.

The masking tape will protect the finish around the drop fill and makes it very easy to control the blade but keep an eye on the masking tape as it will wear and let the blade come through after a while. Just put new tape on.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I tape off a straight edged razor blade and use it as a mini scraper to take off the majority then with very thin cut pieces of fine grit sand paper I floss the area level. But if you're drop filling before final leveling just level it down with the rest of the finish.

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"I've been had again"
Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC

I do all my drop filling after the first build coats, and just wet sand them off with the first 600 grit sanding of the whole box.

I've used a razor blade also. Using the tape to control the extent of the blade is a good idea. I guess that the thickness of the tape is not enough to still leave a little bump... Would some "localized" sanding help to remove the final elevation of the remaining bump from the razor, or would that tend to leave a divot that is not level (actually below) with the rest of the finish?

I have noticed that even though the finish will look level after trying to remove the bumps, after applying another coat of finish I can see that the bump is still there - just not as high...

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

That's why I do a second set of build coats and sometimes a third.
I leave it dry a week between sets and a month after the final thinned coats.

Steve, when you flex the razor blade it will cut only in the center and you can get the bump down level without the thickness of the tape having any effect. The tape is really just a safety measure. I also file the corners of the razor blade round before applying the tape for extra protection.

Does anyone do anything the lacquer thats being used to drop fill? like make it thicker?

Yes, I have a small bottle that I keep thick. When it gets a little too thick I just add a little more lacquer.

Steve, here's what I was calling flossing. Start at about 1:30 of the video.

http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Re ... inish.html

_________________
"I've been had again"
Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC